Why is one auto body shop estimate cheaper than another for the same damage?

Estimates usually differ because they describe different amounts of work rather than different prices for the same work. The most common variables are the type of parts quoted, whether new manufacturer, aftermarket or used; whether the vehicle was disassembled before the estimate was written or assessed visually while assembled; whether paint is blended into adjacent panels or applied to a single panel only; whether calibration of driver assistance systems is included; whether a panel is being repaired or replaced; and whether specified single use hardware, seam sealer and corrosion protection are included. Comparing the individual line items rather than the totals identifies where the difference lies.

Should an auto body estimate include ADAS calibration?

If the repair disturbs cameras, radar units or sensors, or alters ride height, calibration is required for those systems to function to specification. Some estimates include calibration as a line item and others add it once the repair is under way. Because the work is necessary either way, an estimate that omits it is not less expensive overall, only less complete. Asking whether calibration is included allows two estimates to be compared accurately.

Are aftermarket parts acceptable in a collision repair?

Aftermarket parts are a legitimate option for some repairs and are commonly specified in insurance estimates, but they are not equivalent to new manufacturer parts in every application. The important principle is disclosure: the vehicle owner should be told which type of part is being used before the repair begins and the estimate should identify it clearly, so that the choice is an informed one rather than something discovered after the work is complete.

Things to Know Before Having Your Car Repaired

8 Things to Know Before Having Your Car Repaired

There’s no disputing that in the last several years, automobiles have become much more technologically advanced than most of us would have ever imagine. High-tech media systems, on-board computers, electronic ignitions and countless sensors are included in even the base models of many vehicles. Cars today are more reliable, fuel-efficient and eco-friendly than they were a decade ago, but when it comes to service and car repairs, some things still remain the same. Wherever you decide to take your vehicle – dealership, independent auto body shop, franchise facility or service station – ensure the business is reputable and make sure to communicate your issues and needs clearly.

process

1. Never drive a car that could be unsafe because of damages.
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2. Some insurance companies may want you to visit drive-in claims center before having your car repaired. You can do this, or you may leave you car at our shop and ask that the insurance company inspect the car here.
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‍3. You are not required by law to obtain more than one estimate or appraisal.
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‍4. You have the right to go to the repair shop of your choice. Your insurance company cannot require you to go to a particular shop.

5. Differences in repair estimates are common. A lower estimate may not include all necessary work. If you’re not sure why one estimate is different from another you’re received, please ask us.
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6. Choose a shop that has unibody repair equipment and certified (by I-CAR or ASE,for example) technicians.

7. Ask if the shop will be using genuine manufacturer (OEM) replacement parts.

8. Ask Ask if the shop offers a repair Lifetime warranty.

Why two estimates for the same damage don't match

You get two numbers for the same dent and they're thousands apart. The usual assumption is that somebody is overcharging. Usually the truth is duller and more useful: the two estimates are describing different amounts of work, and nothing on either page says so.

Here's where the difference actually lives.

Which parts are being quoted

New manufacturer parts, aftermarket equivalents and used parts from a salvage vehicle can all appear on an estimate, and they don't cost the same. Aftermarket parts aren't automatically wrong — for some repairs they're a perfectly reasonable choice. What matters is that you're told which is being used before the work starts, and that the estimate says so plainly rather than leaving you to notice later.

Whether anyone took the car apart

An estimate written by looking at the outside of an assembled car can only include what's visible. Behind a bumper cover there are brackets, absorbers, sensors and mounting points that only reveal themselves once panels come off. A quick visual estimate is genuinely faster — it's also a starting figure, and the number will move.

Whether the paint is blended

Refinishing one panel edge-to-edge and stopping at the gap is cheaper than carrying the colour into the neighbouring panels. On some colours nobody would ever see the difference. On metallics, pearls and multi-stage finishes you'll see it from across a parking lot. Two estimates can differ by several panels of paint for exactly this reason.

Whether calibration is in there

Modern cars carry cameras and radar behind bumpers and windscreens, and disturbing them means recalibration. Some estimates include that. Some leave it off and add it later. The work has to happen either way, so an estimate without it isn't cheaper — it's just less complete.

Repair or replace

One shop may plan to repair a panel that another intends to replace. Sometimes repairing is the better answer and sometimes the manufacturer's procedure doesn't allow it — certain modern steels can't be heated or pulled back and have to be sectioned or replaced. That single decision can account for most of the gap between two numbers.

The unglamorous materials

Manufacturers specify single-use bolts and clips, seam sealer and corrosion protection at defined points. None of it is visible when the car is finished and all of it is easy to leave off an estimate. It's rarely the biggest line, but it's the one that decides whether a repair is still sound in five years.

Compare the line items, not the totals. Two estimates are only comparable if they describe the same work. Put them side by side and look for what one lists and the other doesn't — that's where the money is, and it's a much better question than "why are you more expensive."

And to be fair about it: a higher estimate isn't automatically the more thorough one. Ask both shops the same questions. Which parts are you quoting? Did you take it apart before writing this? Is calibration included? Are you blending into the adjacent panels? A shop that can answer those clearly has thought about your car. A shop that gets vague has told you something too.

You're also entitled to know what's going on your vehicle before the work begins — including which parts are being used. Asking isn't rude. It's the whole point of getting an estimate.

Have an estimate from somewhere else? Bring it in. We'll go through it line by line with you and explain what each item is, what's included and what isn't — whether or not you end up leaving the car with us. There's no charge for that and no obligation attached to it.